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Rainy night

Cmentarz

Rakowicki Cmentarz is a huge cemetery.

The afternoon was almost warm,

and before I knew it the gates were closing.

This is where we saw the All Saint's Day celebration in November,

with the beautiful lanterns lit for the deceased.

Running the Half

Not me!

Didn't know

that this was

going to happen,

but still am not

in shape for even a half.

Keith and I were out for a walk-run event of our own, and realized we were walking in the middle of this half marathon. Keith had forgotten to tell me that one of his colleagues was entered, that's Dariusz, in the black. In the states, this route would have been roped off, water stations every mile, and race attendants to make sure that no one crossed the path of a runner! But here the runners took in stride as people continuously crossed the walkway. Or stopped abruptly in front of them, seemingly oblivious to the fact that there was a race! We notice that there are several times like this where you are more or less expected to take responsibility for your own actions, and not have to be warned or 'protected' by barriers. Walking to the top of the Mounds here is one example. You can see one of the Mounds in the background. Narrow paths winding up around the hill, with no rail to keep you from being swept off by the wind, and tumbling down the sides. They aren't that tall, but I still want to hold on to the ground on my way up.

There will be a full marathon the first week end in May.

Any takers?

These runners were

taking in the sights.

Forsythia means Spring is here

Easter Morning

We woke up at 4:30 am in order to walk over to Kazimierz and attend the service at Corpus Christi church, Bozego Ciala. After a few days of winter precipitation, the clear moonlit sky was our first Easter blessing.

We arrived early enough that we could get seated near the back. We figured we wouldn't last the entire service, as it could be four hours. And, since we wouldn't understand exactly what was being said. It was fascinating to watch the nuns and parishioners enter the church. I'll try to describe it to you. I didn't take any photos, but was about to bust at the seams to do so! It was beautiful. So reverent, despite being a huge church, with so many people arriving, you literally could hear a pin drop. In the darkened Gothic church, the ladies, were busy placing the floats in the aisles. While way in the front I could see that many clergy were gathering in groups. The altar boys and several other children's groups, holding banners, all in formation. The floats were beautiful, figures of Jesus surrounded by flowers and covered with a canopy.

The ladies, and they weren't the young women of the congregation, hoisted the platforms up onto their shoulders, and the singing began. A very solemn tune, not familiar, words that floated by in the same unrecognizable way I've gotten used to.
And then, in the refrain of the hymn, that one word. The one word that united 3 Amerykanskis with the hundreds of Polskis in the church - "Alleluia"! Many times we have felt like outsiders in the last six months of living here, obviously. But shortly after 6 am, in a Catholic church in Eastern Europe I felt like I belonged. In a very foreign city, in the midst of a very unfamiliar denomination, hearing undecipherable words, we were a part of a congregation of worshipers on the most significant day of our Christian calendar. The atmosphere was stoic, but at the same time I was overwhelmed with that familiar 'peace that passes understanding'. We could say, and mean "Alleluia", right along with our Polish neighbors. Our second blessing of the day.

The congregation rose and we joined them in a procession around the outside of the church. This as I understand it, is to symbolize the search for the dead body of Christ. Once back inside the lights went on. Again symbolizing the light Christ brings to the world. The old church was illuminated and alive in the glint of the gilded niches and statues. Our spots in the back pews were now filled, and we found ourselves standing along the walls. At that point we slipped out a door, and headed back to Old Town and our friend's apartment for breakfast. (He said he was relieved that I hadn't whipped out my camera inside the church! He thinks I take too many photos!) I can think back on several meaningful worship experiences in my life. Brought up baptist, some revolve around revivals, some are the quiet, very private moments with God. And now, the memory of this Easter service, might conjure up that wonderful 'at home' feeling you have when you know you are loved. God lives here too, and we were just with some members of the family, giving thanks for our salvation. Our most important blessing of the day. "Alleluia"

snap shots

European Culture for less! found this online

"Krakow, Poland: European culture for less"

"During World War II, when air raids were laying waste to London, Dresden, Berlin and other great European cities, Krakow was only lightly bombed. Consequently, it has one of the most spectacularly preserved medieval town centers on the Continent. Visit early enough in fall (it gets quite chilly later) and you’ll also be able to experience its vibrant street life, which in some ways mirrors that of Paris, with throngs of people hanging out in sidewalk cafes and street performers turning the pavements into a daily carnival. There are also superb sightseeing opportunities in the city and beyond, including exquisite ancient cathedrals and synagogues and the sobering Auschwitz concentration camp.

Airfare will easily be your biggest expense, so if you have any frequent flier miles saved up, now’s the time to spend ’em (from New York City, the cheapest gateway to Europe, I’ve found round-trip fares as low as $785 in September and $615 in October). Your costs on the ground will be fairly reasonable, as Poland is not yet on the euro (which is currently trading at near-record highs against the dollar).

Budget lodgings, such as the bland but fine U Pana Cogito (http://www.pcogito.pl/), will run you about $80 a night for a spacious double room with private bath. A charming hotel in the city center, such as the Hotel Karmel (http://www.karmel.com.pl/), will cost closer to $100 per night. Budget $6 per person for picnic lunches, and just $10-$15 for nice sit-down dinners."

This came to our MSN home page, and of course I jumped on it! And in reality it does cost more than they quote. But Krakow is on the map!

Day before Easter

Swieconka, is the Basket Blessing Ceremony, that takes place on the Saturday before Easter.

We sat out in front of the church at the Rynek and snapped pictures of people as they went into St. Mary's. On our way to the square, we pass several churches and each one had a steady stream of basket toting folks. The baskets are filled with items for the Easter morning breakfasts. Bread butter horseradish salt kielbasa cakes, maybe some chocolates, remember lent is over now! These items are sprinkled with holy water and blessed for the families. It was another cold but sunny day, so we lingered around the Easter Market and ate kielbasa and mushrooms and potatoes, soo goood!

first day of spring

Walking up to meet Keith for lunch
I stopped just long enough to take a picture
of the pigeons, since the sun was so bright.

And the crocus are up. Finally some color.

Then a cloud drifted over and the snow swirled!


The snow was gone by the next afternoon.

Hoefully 'real' spring is just around the corner.

65th Anniversay in Plaszow

March of Life "Marsz Zycia"

After being at the Palm Sunday celebration at the square, we ventured out of Kazimierz to an area across the river called Podgorze. I had read information about an event that was to take place there to commemorate the final liquidation of the Jewish ghetto, in 1943.

I'm assuming most of you have seen the movie 'Shindler's List'. I didn't realize until yesterday that Keith hasn't seen it. If you know about the movie, you'll know that it took place, and was filmed here in Krakow. In the district called Podgorze. I hope I get the facts straight, so, in a nut shell, here goes.

Poland was invaded by Nazi's and Soviet Russia in 1939, at the very beginning of World War II. This country lost 6 million people during the war, half of them Jews. Part of the Nazi plan was to have Krakow 'cleaned' of the Jewish people. The General Government of the Nazi's was established in this section of Poland. This quarter of the country was to be the administrative region for racial cleansing. Thus Auschwitz-Birkenau is close by. And the buildings of Krakow are virtually untouched by the destruction of war.

In March of 1941 the Nazis moved 15,000 Jews out of the Kazimierz district of Krakow, across the Wistula River into Podgorze. The ghetto was established and sealed off by a wall, that was built with the forced labor of the Jews themselves. This ghetto paralleled other cities in Europe that were going through 'extermination'. The town held 3000 Poles, so you can imagine the over crowded living space the deported Jews endured. The displaced Poles of Pogorze, were sent to live in Kazimierz.

The Nazis established a forced labor camp in Plaszow, about a mile away from the ghetto and over two years deported Jews there, from the Podorze ghetto.

German businessman Oskar Shindler, somehow, possibly through bribes, persuaded the Nazis to allow him to have Jewish labor at his enamel factory. And was able to save 1100 or so people from certain death.

The final liquidation came between 13 and 15 March 1943. During those couple of days 2000 people were shot, with the remaining thousands being sent to Plaszow or Auschwitz. The Jews had lived in Krakow 600 years, and were effectively wiped off the face of the earth. I found one source online that states March 13 1943 as the first day the gas chamber at Krema II Birkenau was used, when 1,492 women children and elderly from Podgorze ghetto were put to death immediately upon arrival.

So, to commemorate Shindler's efforts, about two dozen Holocaust survivors from Poland, Israel, and other countries were here on this past Sunday, Palm Sunday, March 16. They walked from a square in Podgorze to the Plaszow camp site. Our language teacher said that it occurs each year as the "March of Life". News accounts state that a long with the survivors, a total of 700 took part.

Keith and I were on the hill, Krak's Mound, that is situated between the two areas of Podgorze and Plaszow. We still aren't familiar enough with the city and couldn't quite find the memorial. Although we did find part of the wall that enclosed the ghetto. It is pictured at the top of this entry. The photo at the left is an old picture. The restored wall as it is today is on the right. It's located behind a school, and is part of the boundary of their playground. We couldn't find a sign telling us how to get to it. In fact we had walked up to an area that looked like a cemetery and just happened to see the familiar shaped ghetto wall down below us. I don't think we were the first tourists to find it with out a guide, since the chained link fence was already bent down enough for us to climb down to the wall.

I can't tell you how moving it was to be there yesterday. Very understated, since we never found the hundreds that took part in the march. I think the march happened while we were at the Palm Sunday celebration in Wolnica Square in Kazimierz. The day was definitely divided between two distinct emotions. From the uplifting Easter celebration, to the solemn remembrance of the Holocaust.

The history here is touchable, you can 'feel' it.

And once again we feel blessed to be in such a place as Krakow.

Palm Sunday

These girls were constantly giggling
and dancing around
While holding up the Palma.
One Daddy stepped
in to help steady the tall
Palm Sunday Decoration

All the Kids were very
attentative to those of
us taking photos




The little guys were
not as animated as the girls

Niedziela Palmowa. We walked over to Kazimierz
to see the Palm Sunday celebration.
There were people selling their crafts,
and baked goods.












Some of the cakes were
shaped like lambs,
I'm sure may already
have the head torn off
and eaten before the
afternoon was over!

There was egg painting for the kids.









And the procession of Palmas.
These are the tall floral things the kids are holding.
They paraded up to the stage
and said which school
or church they represented, and there
may have been a compeitetion,
but not knowing
what anyone was saying, it's hard to tell!
A beautiful way to spend a dreary Palm sunday.

The way it was

We have a language teacher who is a very patient teacher. We don't exactly posses a knack for language, but she is putting up with us. The are a few reasons why we're not doing so well. The town is very tourist friendly, english menus, english 'sale' signs, shop keepers and waitstaff that are none too glad to speak english. We are just here 10 more months, hardly incentive to learn the language. And Polish is darned difficult! Sounds that our vocal cords, throat, lips and tongues are not accustomed to forming. And sounds that our brain cannot decifer. After 3 months of lessons there are times that a word or a sound will make sense, but not very often.

Today during my lesson, as she was using pertinent occasions to teach me, I was learning the verbs for must, have, and ability. Any way we got way off the subject after teaching me the correct way to say I must go to the doctor. Started with the health care system, and how bad it still is in Poland. Poles pay 9% of their income to health care but receive minimal care. For example her mother has a heart condition and was told it would be 4 months before she could see the doctor. So the family paid to have her mother seen sooner at a private clinic. I told her it is somewhat similar with the states, and she agrees that it is not like it was during her childhood. The soviet rule was more invasive than I realized.

At the end of the second world war, Europe was freed of the Nazi regime. But in Poland, and the the other Eastern block countries, the soviets began a long occupation that stifled the people. Her sister is older by about 5 years, and she says in their family photos you can see a marked difference in the era. Photos from the 50's have the family dressed plainly. Showing how out of contact with the outside world they were. Photos of the girls in the 60's, after Stalin, show them in fashionable dress, having been more in touch with the outside world. At 25 she almost immigrated to Australia, had her route figured out, but stayed in Poland, so her mother wouldn't be alone and depressed. In 1986 she couldn't imagine a time when Poles would be free to go where they pleased. Had she left at that time, there would be no returning. Passports were difficult at best to get, the authorities would look for ways to have people beholden to them. Such as ' If you receive your document, you must watch your neighbor and report to us', or 'report any underground activity'. They created an atmosphere of distrust.

Money didn't mean too much under the communist rule, there was more bargaining power in what you had. She told me the story of when a relative waited in line for two weeks to get on the list for a washing machine. Once in the store they were told that there were no more washing machines, "did they want a refrigerator?" So they bought a refrigerator, even though they already had one. They put a notice in the newspaper that they had a refrigerator, was anyone willing to trade for a washing machine! She said the paper was full of adds for trades like that and that families had lots of stuff they kept for trading!

The governments response to Solidarity was Martial Law. Between Dec 1981- July 1983 they lived under extreme economic and civil liberty restrictions. This meant curfew 10 pm until 6 am. Only employed people could be on the streets. She was a student during this time and always watched the clock so to be home before 10:00. Mail was censored, borders and airports closed, and food rationed. The typical stories we hear about the long lines for bread is true. Each person had a ticket, with their ration amounts for the month, one kilo of sugar, one stick of butter, one bar of soap, one bottle of alcohol, 100 grams of chocolate, ect. Her sister lived in a mining town and actually had a ration of 2 bars of soap!

When she tells these stories I am amazed. We heard the news of communist rule, but to actually hear her relay these stories, I am astonished. I can only begin to imagine what it must have been like. After hurricanes Wrightsville Beach some times will impose curfews, and the National Guard will patrol the streets. We remember sitting on the porch at night and hearing the soldiers walking the street, seeing their silhouettes, with their guns across their shoulders. But they were there to protect our property, not to restrict our freedom.

Walk About

We walked

to the quarry with Ken,

and the boys gave me a hard time

about taking so many pictures,

but they don't write this blog!

Some ice still on the water

but the landing shows

promise of warm weather.

Found another nice little place
for a beer and a sandwich.
Hardly could call this walk exercise

A few photos so you can see that not all of Krakow is old! We do occasionally get out to the regular world. Krakow is as modern as anywhere.

The price of fuel is per liter.

Keith and I are not in the modern era, as we still walk everywhere! The Plaza is about 2 miles away.

Keith's office is in the Galeria Krakowska, pictured here day and night.