Stary Market at Christmas

There is an alternative to modern grocery shopping in Krakow. The Stary Kleparz. The old Market. This is where each vendor has a specialty, butcher, vegetables, candy, fish, clothes, shoes, and this time of year Christmas decorations. My teacher introduced me to this off the beaten path market when I went shopping with her.

I took Katie there and we bought some ornaments -"bombki" for our little Christmas tree. It is an interesting place. Some of the vendors are calling to you to check out their merchandise, as are the ladies that line the sidewalk as you approach the market. They hold out lace tablecloths, flower arrangements, boots trying to get our attention. Keith and I had gone there to buy our Christmas tree. We asked "How much, "ile"? And they responded in Polish. We tried to remember our lesson on numbers, but the lady finally outlined the number 20 on her sleeve with her finger! We paid her, and happily carried our tree away. When we passed her companion she rattled something to us with a big smile! Sure hope it was "Merry Christmas", and not "you paid too much for that tiny tree!"

Szopka krakowska

Krakow's Nativities

Krakow has many traditions special to it alone. The Christmas szopki are one. They look like a fairyland castles, and you have to search to find the Bethlehem scene which it is centered on, but it is a folk art that is unique to Krakow.

The tradition of cribs, or nativity building has a long history in Europe. But for the Cracovians, it was revived in 1937, with the announcement of a competition for the most beautiful crib in Krakow. Since then, with the exception of the war years 1939-1944, the cribs are gathered at the foot of Polish Poet Adam Mickiewiczs statue in the square. These nativities are modeled after the medieval, renaissance and baroque architecture of Krakow. You can pick out features of the Wawel castle and St. Mary's church in almost everyone, no matter how small.

These past winners are on display in the mall. Keith and I went to a museum that has this years szopki. Some are very small, like the little one I purchased at the market, and several are huge, 5 or 6 feet tall.

The details are amazing, considering that they are made out of cardboard and colored foil. Some have engineered lights and moving parts into their designs. And in addition to the Holy Family, you can find chimney sweeps, Santa Claus, the devil, a skeleton representing Death, the trumpeter of St. Mary's, more on that legend in another post, the Wawel dragon -they cram a lot into these sculptures!

When we were at the museum it was fun to watch the kids reactions to seeing these fanciful buildings. At times I thought the docents were going to fuss, but the kids managed to restrain themselves. Watching them peering into the nooks and crannies to see the tiny figures, was good for Keith and I. Brings us back to the wonder of the season, seeing it through a child's eye.

Wigilia Christmas Eve Supper

How many dishes will you prepare for the traditional Christmas dinner for your family? Turkey and dressing, or a ham, maybe yams, the green bean casserole? A favorite old fashioned jello salad would be made for our gathering. Then a bread, biscuits that only grandma can bake? A couple of pies and assorted cookies. Seven or eight dishes. But twelve dishes for Christmas supper!?that's how many most Poles will sit down to, after fasting all day! It will vary from region to region, and family to family. These represent the apostles, or the twelve months of the year. Keith and I have been hearing that there are some very meaningful aspects to a Polish Christmas. There is a belief that "how goes Christmas eve, is how the year will go", so be careful that you don't quarrel, and be sure to mend riffs with neighbors.

I went to the market with my language teacher while she did some of her shopping and she gave me her family's version of the dinner and traditions. It is a meatless menu. Carp is the traditional main dish. Although Joanna will have another white fish, as she doesn't care for carp. Soups; beet root and sour rye or mushroom, noodles, several pickled vegetable dishes, mushrooms dishes, cabbage and peas, dumplings: uszka and pierogi, fruit compote, and variety of sweet breads. Poppy seed bread, and kutia, a sweet grain pudding. Most of these she has begun to prepare and will store away. Her husband is very helpful, and does the house cleaning, even windows! As there is to be no housework done on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day. The meal is begun when the first star appears, and is served on a white table cloth with hay underneath, to remind of the stable where Christ was born. A consecrated piece of unleavened bread; an oplatek is broken by the husband and offered to family with a request to forgive any hurts and wishes for happiness in the new year.

Christmas Market in Krakow

Being away from home during the Christmas Holiday, might have been depressing, but so far we have been immersed in a winter wonderland like we have never experienced. The snowfall and lights have been beautiful, and we are hoping that the snow will stay long enough for Katie to see Krakow in this atmosphere.

Tonite we walked up to the square for supper, and these photos are of old town and the Christmas Market. I thought my fingers would freeze off before I could get these shots! The vendors are outside with these little booths all day and until 21:00 (that's 9pm) So if any of you want Polish pottery or those beautiful Polish glass handpainted Christmas ornaments, or maybe the folksy straw ornaments, you have until 25 December. There is a lot of shopping going on, but it doesn't seem as frenzied as it does back home...St. Nicholas has already visited the children in Poland. He leaves a present under their pillows on 5 December. Some of the favorite treats sold at the Market are gingerbread and poppyseed cookies, and many kinds of chocolate Santas, and candies. We'll have a more detailed description when Katie arrives and we sample all of them!!